Meet some of the people in their shops and restaurants. What’s more, they are not far from the town hall and the church (Notre-Dame de Vincennes). Not to mention, it is nice to have a few addresses you can go to when you are visiting a town or city you don’t know. However, I am only giving you the ones I am familiar with. When I get to know a new one, I will add it to the list. To conclude why not find something in the shops to have a picnic in the “Bois de Vincennes”, if you are here when the weather is pleasant.
In the rue de Midi (starts next to the “Cours de Marigny” and the town hall)
Fresh roasted coffee, tea, gourmet foods and chocolate
La BRÛLERIE DE MIDI run by a nice couple, Dominique and Stephan, for 18 years (3, rue de Midi) is the only coffee roasting shop in Vincennes. The shop also has tea, various gourmet foods, chocolates and sweets. You will also find other items such as teapots and coffee makers. If you need gifts, you will find ideas here. http://bruleriedumidi.free.fr/
Chocolate, ice cream and macarons.
JEFF de BRUGGES has been in Vincennes for 22 years (1ter, rue de Midi – on the corner of rue de Midi and rue Raymond de Temple). They have absolutely scrumptious Belgium chocolates and ice cream (when the weather is warmer) from Bruges, Belgium, and in the winter, luscious hot chocolate. There is a macaron shop, Aux Merveilleux de Fred, (1, rue de Midi) where they have mouth-watering macarons and other traditional pastries. https://auxmerveilleux.com/vincennes/fr/ They are next to an ice cream shop La Crème (1bis, rue de Midi) that makes delicious ice cream.
Musical instruments and a music library
Near the church, Notre-Dame de Vincennes, and on the Church Square, you shouldn’t miss the music and musical instrument shop and workshop, LARGHETTO (84-86 rue Raymond de Temple) run by Gaël and Guillaume. The shop has been around for over 40 years. Guillaume repairs and restores musical instruments (plucked and bowed stringed instruments). They can repair, restore and fabricate some string instruments and have all kinds of accessories. Gaêl is a specialist of a large selection of sheet music from over 150 editors.
Besides violins, cellos, violoncellos, double bass, violas, violas de gamba, and guitars of all kinds, you might find some unusual instruments such as a mandolin, a lute, a ukulele, a balalaika and wind instruments such as flutes, saxophones, clarinets, trombones and trumpets. They also have music keyboards. Additionally, they are specialists of smaller instruments for children. Feel free to ask them any question you might have. And ask them about any instrument you might be looking for. https://www.larghetto-musique.fr/
Rue de Fontenay:
If you turn left on rue de Fontenay, after the Café de Marigny, you will find “ROTISSERIE TESTA”(67, rue de Fontenay). A “rotisserie” is a shop where they serve freshly roasted meat. Here you will find excellent quality tasty roast chicken and meat among a nice selection of other delicious freshly-made homemade foods and charcuterie. Frédéric Testa and family, who have been there since 1968, will serve you with a smile.
Bookstore and events
Keep on walking down rue de Fontenay until you get to a rather large bookshop, MILLE PAGES (91, rue de Fontenay), founded by Francis Geffard in 1980. There are several events every month, evenings with authors (some of them English-speaking) and films for example. You will find postcards, if you need them. They also participate in the English speaking book fair and conference, Festival America every two years. The next festival will be in September 2026. https://www.millepages.fr
French
If you want good traditional French food, you should go to “LA TABLE DE TROYES” (2, avenue de Paris, across from the castle), one of my favorite restaurants. This restaurant is a “rotisserie”, a “brasserie” and a traditional French restaurant. So you can find succulent roast and grilled meat (family(free-range) and French production), sauerkraut, seafood, duck, fondue, foie gras among other dishes. They also make their own ice cream and have homemade deserts. https://www.la-table-des-troys.com/carte-menus
Chinese
The best Chinese takeout in Vincennes since 1995 is CHEZ KIM on 25, rue de Montreuil. After Mille Pages bookstore keep on walking(on the left side of the street) until you get to rue de Montreuil and then, turn left. And there it is, on the opposite side of the street. I have been going there since I first came here when my flatmate told me it was the best Chinese takeout in Vincennes. They take great care in what they make. Now the younger generation has taken over under Alexi since 2014. Additionally, there are moderately priced lunch menus and meal boxes (such as Bo-Bun, Pho, etc.) you can try. https://fr.restaurantguru.com/Chez-Kim-Vincennes
Lebanese
Try homemade Lebanese food at MIAM MIAM (18, rue de Montreuil). Khadija and Mohamed running the restaurant since the end of 2010 will be glad to serve you some typical Lebanese food. Find the usual Chawarma, Falafel, Kebbe, Taboulé, Baklava, and menus among quite a selection. You can dine in or order to takeout.
Italian
And if you want to see a couple of Italian restaurants across from the castle, at 22, rue de Paris, you will find BARTO, with nice sized portions. https://barto-pizza.fr/ Another style of Italian restaurant, more expensive but quite good, DEL POZZO, is at 2, rue de Paris.
Thai street food
Why not try a Thai run Asian street food, sushi and poke bar shop called PAPY LEE at the Monoprix supermarket on rue de Montreuil! Pat is one of the very pleasant and helpful people to serve you (afternoon/evening). Sometimes, they have samples for you to taste. There is a large selection to choose from including Dim Sum, wok, finger and rotisserie food. There is a microwave oven to warm up whatever food you decide to get. https://papylee.com/
And a Pharmacy for your various needs:
If you need a pharmacy for any reason, you should go to 33, rue de Fontenay, where you will find LA BONNE NOUVELLE and some very nice, friendly and helpful people. The pharmacy belonging to Mme Coeuille has been there since 2010. She is helped by Mariam, Sabrina, Gabriella and Jakadi. It is the pharmacy I prefer to go to. Besides being a pharmacy, they also have organic and vegan products. They also deal with phytotherapy, homeopathy, skin and hair products, vitamins, products for babies and even perfume among other things.
For all of the above, you can mention that you found their address on my website.
My first travel blog article is about the royal town and castle of Vincennes. In this article, you will find a brief description of what there is to see in Vincennes. Indeed, you can get an idea of the area before you come to visit it. All things considered, your visit will be more enriching and interesting.
Why come to Vincennes?
Most importantly, Vincennes, its castle, woods and the surrounding area have a rich heritage to discover. And the area has played an important role in French history. Moreover, you can also take advantage of many cultural and artistic events depending on when you decide to come.
Explore the area.
Why not take your time to explore Vincennes and the area instead of rushing through a castle visit on a tour of several Parisian sites ? You can also take advantage of several activities including those geared towards children. Additionally, you can rent bicycles in several areas around Vincennes. You can use them so as to visit the town and the “Bois de Vincennes”(Vincennes woods) nearby. There are also boats to rent for two of the lakes in the Vincennes woods. More later.
Metro and Tourist office
If you come by metro, get off at the last stop of LINE ONE, “Château de Vincennes. » Stop off at the Tourist Office (Office de Tourisme) across from the castle at 28 rue de Paris to get information (maps of the town, the Vincennes woods and a map of what to visit) about what to see and do and buy tickets if needed. What are some various options to see the town ? : start on your own with maps, and/or guided tours, audio guided tours, heritage circuits (for example, architectural styles throughout Vincennes ( 19th century and Art-Deco)), free information signpost circuits, enigmatic fun circuits, treasure hunts with an audio guide and a street art tour. Here is a site in English: https://www.vincennes-tourisme.fr/en/
Creation of Vincennes
Important dates for Vincennes: In 1787 : creation of the town of Vincennes. In 1790, the parish of « la Pissotte » became part of the town of Vincennes. In 1796, transferral of the Arsenal to the Vincennes castle probably saved the castle from being demolished.
What to see in and around Vincennes :
The Vincennes castle (Château de Vincennes) and the chapel (Sainte Chapelle)
Let’s look at a few facts. First, the Vincennes castle as one of the few remaining castles still standing has a rich and important history. So interestingly, several French kings lived here, including an English king, Henry V who died in the castle in 1422. The medieval castle once surrounded by forests has a keep of 50 meters (highest fortress in Europe). It is a rectangle of defensive walls and 14 acres surrounded by moats and nine towers. It also has a drawbridge, wide moat, inner courtyard, dungeon and a beautiful Gothic and Renaissance chapel, the”Sainte Chapelle”. https://www.familinparis.fr/en/vincennes-castle-visit-2/
The Vincennes castle and the Sainte Chapelle can be visited on a guided tour or not. There is also a historical military heritage archive library in existence since the 18th century open to free visits. The King’s Residence is also a Minister of Defense library harboring expositions with a library you can visit for free. There are concerts, conferences and exhibitions. And during the school holidays there is entertainment for children.
The “Sainte Chapelle”
The Sainte Chapelle was to harbor the relics of the Passion of Christ. For that purpose, King Louis IX had had a small chapel built in 1237 to house the relics of the Passion of Christ arriving from Constantinople on the way to Paris. The crown of thorns arrived in 1239 and other relics in 1241. Before taking the relics to the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, Louis IX kept some thorns and later added the True Cross for the Vincennes Sainte Chapelle.
In 1379, King Charles V founded the ‘Sainte Chapelle’ (a transition between a rayonnant Gothic style and a flamboyant Gothic style). King Charles V wanted Vincennes to be a royal town with the chapel. The Sainte Chapelle was to protect the royal residence and the dynasty. In 1379, the architect Raymond de Temple created the plan for it after that of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris. They did not finish the chapel construction before 1559.
Town hall (Mairie de Vincennes), 53 bis rue de Fontenay
Eugene Calinard was the architect of the town hall in the Neo-Renaissance style in 1891 (part of the building on the Cours Marigny). Later, in 1935, extensions were built in the art-deco style (part of the building on the rue de Fontenay-main entrance). Markedly, the interior in a 30s art-deco style has a monumental staircase and a glass dome. Then, the paintings by Marcel Chabas in the wedding room show the castle, the town hall, the Vincennes woods, and Daumesnil lake. https://locations.filmfrance.net/location/city-vincennes-city-hallglobal-information
Nôtre Dame Church, 82 rue de Raymond du Temple
The construction of the Vincennes Notre Dame church (next to the town hall) by the architect Jean-Baptiste Cicéron Lesueur began in 1829 and finished in 1832. As the town grew, there were additions built in 1896 and 1934. At last, the final additions were a crypt and chapels on its sides in the 1950s. Interestingly, next to the church is a recently made Church square (used to be a street) made ‘piazza’ style. This type of architecture seems to attract more people, making it a friendlier place.
St. Louis Church, 22 rue Faÿs
Another interesting building to visit is the Saint Louis Church of a neo-byzantine style. It has the form of a Greek cross with a octogonal dome. Jacques Droz and Joseph Marrast designed the church (consecrated in 1924) in 1912. The construction started in 1914 and finished in 1924. Moreover, concerning the interior, Maurice Denis, George Desvallières and Henri Marret did the fresques, and Maurice Dhomme, the ceramics. Carlo Sarrabezolles and Armand Boutrolles did the sculptures, and Raymond Subes, the wrought-iron work.
Old Cemetery, 1 rue de Fontenay
In the old cemetery, some noteworthy people are buried (Michel Pathé – the king of cinema, General Daumesnil, who defended the Vincennes castle against the Prussians for Napoleon in 1814). The tomb of Jean Sempé, mystic healer, is frequently visited. Some of the previous mayors of Vincennes are also buried there. There are several monuments and steles to those dead in different wars (the French-Prussian war, 1914-1918, 1939-1945, and AFN-Algeria (1954-1962), and for the people deported during the Second World War. Originally the cemetery was next to the Notre Dame church destroyed in 1795. Before the new Notre Dame church was built in 1835, the cemetery was transferred to where it is now.
Statue of Saint Louis
The statue of Saint Louis is in front of the castle on the right (rue de Paris and avenue de Général de Gaulle) (sculpture by Adolphe Mony in 1906) It was given to the city of Vincennes by the city of Paris to commemorate the return of the ashes of St. Louis to France. St. Louis (Louis IX) (born 1214 – died 1270) became king in 1226. Interestingly, he held public sessions under an oak tree in the Vincennes woods to arbitrate and settle conflicts. The oak tree is thought to be near the hippodrome (race track). Finally, he died at Carthage, Tunisia during a crusade. (Unfortunately, the statue of Saint Louis has been displaced during the renovation work.)
Statue of General Pierre Daumesnil
The bronze statue made after a sculpture by Louis Rochet shows General Pierre Daumesnil when he was defending the castle in 1814 against the Prussians. He had lost his leg in a previous battle. Charles Garnier created the pedestal. Charles Malifat cast the statue inaugurated in 1873. In 1891, it was transferred to its present spot to stand in front of the present town hall, Cours de Marigny.
“Parc Floral” in the Vincennes Woods (Bois de Vincennes)
The Vincennes Woods has belonged to the city of Paris since 1860. Look at its map to locate the different sites to visit including the Parc Floral.
It has a botanical garden (Parc Floral) across from the castle and next to the military Fort Neuf. It is across from the castle not far from the bus and metro station. The “Parc Floral” has exhibitions, gardens with different themes, and horticulture. From June to September, there are classical and jazz concerts, and a group of concerts called Pesticles.
In the Botanical Garden, there is a special Nature house including a library with games. In addition, the Butterfly Garden with 50 to 100 species is in a tropical garden hothouse.. There is special itinerary where you can visit a humid or tropical zone, an urban space, an insect hotel, birdhouses, hives. Every month there are planned activities for children. You can also play mini-golf in the garden. In English: https://www.familinparis.fr/en/floral-park-vincennes/
Guignol du Parc Floral
There is a special area for children to play. There is a well-known puppet (marionnette) called the “Guignol du Parc Floral”, that has existed since 1808. The “Guignol” character dates from the 19th century. There are a number of performances for children from the age of 2. You can see them from 3pm to 4pm on Wednesdays, weekends and school holidays.
What else is there in the Vincennes Woods?
After the Parc Floral, other places to experience are the Vincennes Zoo, the Hippodrome, the Boudhist pagoda, the ‘Palais de la Porte Dorée (The Golden Door Palace) with its Museum of Immigration and Aquarium and the Marionettes de Paris (interactive puppet show).
If you like an old style puppet show, you should go see The Marionnettes de Paris (puppet show interacting with the audience) at St. Mandé. It probably originated at the beginning of the last century. It was an open theater until the 1990s. You will find it at the edge of the Vincennes Woods (à l’orée du bois de Vincennes) behind the St Mandé town hall and St. Mandé lake. Nearby, there are ponies, carousels and then, possible boat rental on the lake nearby.
Vincennes Zoo
The recently renovated zoo of 14.5 hectares at Saint Mandé/Paris first opened on June 2, 1934 as part of the Museum of Natural History in Paris. Due for renovation, it closed November 30th 2008 and reopened in April 2014. It had 2,500 animals and 234 species in 2021. As the larger animals need more space to accommodate them, some of them can not always be seen. To get there from Vincennes, you can take the bus 46 or the 325 at the bus station near the metro and get off at Vincennes Zoo.
Do you want to go to the races?
The Hippodrome of Vincennes (horse race track) started hosting horse races in 1863. The Hippodrome of 42 hectares has a track of 1,975m and another of 1,325m for night races. The ‘Prix d’Amérique’ harness race started in 1879 is one of the many races held here, including the saddle trot. Today, you can bet on races starting at 2€. To get there, take the Bus 112 at the Vincennes metro-bus station and get off at Carrefour-de-Beauté and turn right into ‘Route de la Ferme’ leading to the racetrack. And you can find lunch and dinner, fine dining or food trucks to eat. A link to see what is happening: https://www.vincennes-hippodrome.com/fr/
The Golden Door Palace
Another interesting place to go is the ‘Palais de la Porte Dorée’ (the Golden Door Palace) on the edge of the Vincennes woods. Previously, this palace housed the world colonial expo of 1931. Today, it houses the museum of immigration history and a tropical aquarium. Recently, a terrarium has been added to the aquarium. Interestingly, the building of 17,000 m is a good representation of and one of the first of the art-deco style. Finally, it became the National Museum of Immigration in 2012. To get there, get off at the metro stop or bus 46 stop: Porte Dorée.
The Buddhist pagoda and temple.
The Buddhist pagoda in the Vincennes Woods has a magnificent TibetanBuddhist temple of Kagyu-Dzong built between 1983 and 1985, with the largest Buddha in Europe (9 meters high – almost 30ft high) and completely covered with goldleaf. The architect was Jean-Luke Massot. The pagoda, whose architect was Louis-Hippolyte Boileau, is in two former buildings (Cameroun and Togo) of the colonial exhibition in 1931. The Cameroun pavillon was restored in 1977 and inaugurated by Jacques Chirac in 1977. The Togo pavillon, still needs to be restored, will house a library of books of different Buddhist traditions. So how to get there : The nearest metro, bus, or tram station is Porte Dorée. From Vincennes, take the Bus 46 stop: Porte Dorée. https://www.bouddhisme-france.org/la-grande-pagode/activites-a-la-pagode/
And even more in the Vincennes woods?
An arboretum, a tropical garden, a farm, bird reserves, four lakes, boat and bicycle rental, and pony rides. For instance, the Arboretum of Paris is a botanical garden of trees near the Hippodrome (2000 trees and 800 different species). To get an idea, here is a link to the Arboretum: https://www.familinparis.fr/en/paris-arboretum/ The Paris Farm (5 hectares) is near the Hippodrome. The gardens of the École de Breuil (Botany school) can be visited by the public every day. And that isn’t all…..
Do you like the theater?La Cartoucherie
Originally, La Cartoucherie was built in 1874 to manufacture arms and gun powder. It stopped manufacturing in the 1940s following a signed convention in 1947 to demilitarize the zone. In 1970, Ariane Mnouchkine transformed the buildings to be used for the theater. Her theater group was the Théatre de Soleil. Today, there are four theaters “Théâtre de l’Aquarium”, “ Théâtre du Soleil”,“Théâtre de l’Épée du Bois”, “Théâtre de la Tempête and a workshop, the “Atelier de Paris –Carolyn Carlson”. You can get there with the bus 112 (stop: La Cartoucherie) or a navette from the Château de Vincennes bus/metro station. A link: http://www.lacartoucherie.fr/fr/index.html
And more about Vincennes….
After that, why not take advantage of a rich selection of cultural events and activities (theater, dance, and music) during your stay. For example, you can find concerts in different spots in Vincennes, including across from the town hall. (Building : Cœur de ville)
It means a lot more when you know more about the area you are visiting. It isn’t just about seeing a few buildings and monuments. After all, kings were drawn to this area to hunt and lived in the area for centuries. Brave men have fought for their country and others have created great things.
And what next……
So we have finished a brief overview of what you can experience in Vincennes. I hope you enjoyed this first glimpse of this interesting town. In the articles that follow, I will talk more about different aspects of Vincennes such as its history. You will see that this area has actively played a role in French history. You will also learn more about the area or what is happening. And then, how about some of the shops, restaurants, etc. and the people in them as you get to know Vincennes better. And then how about a glimpse at Vincennes’ sister town in Indiana, that interestingly existed before Vincennes in France?
